What is squalane? Discover its benefits in cosmetics

Squalane is a natural lipid that forms part of the structure of human skin. It is the stabilised version of squalene, a substance found naturally in our skin and is a component of sebum. To prevent oxidation and enhance its shelf life in cosmetic formulations, squalene is hydrogenated and transformed into squalane, a more stable, versatile, and safer molecule.

But beyond its stability, the true value of squalane lies in its fundamental role in maintaining the barrier function. This biomimetic active ingredient serves as a physiological emollient, aiding in the prevention of transepidermal water loss and protecting the skin against external aggressors. Its effects restore skin integrity, enhance cohesion between cells, and sustain an optimal level of hydration, leading to skin that is more resilient, supple, and visibly healthier.

Although the body naturally produces squalane, its concentration decreases with age and is influenced by factors such as pollution, solar radiation, and environmental stress. Topical application of squalane has, therefore, become a key strategy to preserve skin youthfulness and reinforce the barrier function, particularly in sensitive, dehydrated skin or skin exposed to adverse conditions.

In addition to its physiological benefits, the squalane used in cosmetics is primarily derived from sustainable plant sources such as olive oil, rice oil, and certain seaweeds. This plant-based alternative not only respects the skin but also protects the environment, rendering it a highly valued ingredient for both its effectiveness and responsible sourcing.

Why is the skin's barrier function so important? The essential role of squalane.

The barrier function is the skin's first line of defence. Its role is to protect us from external aggressors (such as pollution, UV rays, and temperature changes) and to prevent transepidermal water loss. When this barrier is weakened, the skin becomes more vulnerable, easily irritated, loses moisture, and skin ageing is accelerated.

This is where squalane truly shines: due to its structure, which resembles the skin's natural lipids, it serves as a repairer and strengthener of the hydrolipidic film, assisting with:

·      Protect and restore the barrier function

·      Enhance skin elasticity and suppleness

·      Minimise moisture loss and enhance water retention in the epidermis 

In advanced cosmetics, squalane is regarded as a vital active ingredient for maintaining skin balance, strength, and resilience, even under extreme conditions or following intensive treatments.

Why choose a facial cleanser containing squalane? More than just cleansing, it offers a restorative action.

The first step in any facial care routine is cleansing. However, it's not merely about removing impurities or traces of make-up; effective cleansing must also maintain the skin's balance and protect the barrier function, particularly for sensitive, dehydrated, or reactive skin.

This is where a facial cleanser containing squalane truly stands out.

At U/1ST, we understand that squalane is far more than a passing trend: it is a vital active ingredient for formulating products that blend efficacy, sensoriality, and respect for the skin. Its high biocompatibility, lightweight texture, and capacity to reinforce the skin barrier render it an ideal ingredient for even the most sensitive or reactive skin.

That's why we've incorporated it into our MULTIACTIVE SERUM CLEANSER, a cleansing balm that not only effectively removes traces of make-up, dirt, and impurities but also moisturises, soothes, and calms, leaving the skin feeling comfortable, balanced, and visibly healthier from the very first use.

More than just a cleansing step, this product serves as the initial treatment in your routine, nurturing the skin from the outset and optimising the effectiveness of the active ingredients you apply afterwards.

Furthermore, the formula is enriched with inulin, a plant-based prebiotic that aids in restoring the balance of the skin's microbiome, strengthening the skin's natural defences. It also offers moisturising and soothing properties, making it an ideal ally for skin that is prone to sensitivity or dehydration.

Together, squalane and inulin work synergistically to maintain a robust, balanced, and resilient skin barrier, even after intensive treatments or in challenging environmental conditions.

Why can squalane be more moisturising than hyaluronic acid?

Although both squalane and hyaluronic acid are star ingredients in cosmetics for their moisturising properties, they do not function in the same manner. The distinction lies in their chemical structure, their behaviour in the skin, and their mechanism of action.

Squalane: long-lasting hydration and reinforcement of the skin barrier.

Squalane is a plant lipid derived from squalene, a natural component of human sebum. Because it has a biomimetic structure, it is easily recognised by the skin, improving its absorption and efficacy.

It serves as an emollient, smoothing the skin's surface and reinforcing the hydrolipidic film, which is essential for preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This leads to longer-lasting hydration, enhanced elasticity, and a more robust skin barrier. Furthermore, squalane offers antioxidant properties, aiding in the protection of the skin from environmental stress and free radicals.

Hyaluronic Acid: immediate hydration from the inside out

Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide naturally found in the skin and connective tissues. It has the capacity to attract and retain up to 1000 times its weight in water, delivering intense and immediately visible hydration.

However, its action is more superficial and does not directly contribute to reinforcing the skin barrier. If it is not properly sealed with an emollient, it could even promote the evaporation of this water in dry environmental conditions.

Which is better? In fact, they are allies.

Squalane does not replace hyaluronic acid, nor does hyaluronic acid replace squalane. Together, they create a highly effective moisturising duo. First, apply hyaluronic acid to add water to the skin. Then, seal in moisture with squalane to prevent moisture loss and strengthen the barrier function.

Incorporating products containing squalane into your daily routine not only enhances the health and appearance of your skin but also amplifies the benefits of other active ingredients, bringing you closer to genuine and enduring beauty. At U/1ST, we are here to assist you in discovering the power of this and other active ingredients to transform your routine.